Day 31 - Secret water garden

15th February, 2009

Following time on the beach in Celestún, we headed back inland, further into the state of Yucatán. We were happy to bypass the largest city in the area; Mérida, but had to drive around it's periphery to get to our destination; the ruins of Chichen Itza. No sooner had we come close to Mérida we encountered Military and Police check points littering the main access roads (as is the case with most large cities here). Being quite used to being pulled over and questioned this didn't seem like a problem. However, this time we were pulled over at all three we passed through and interrogated at each. Seems the laws are mostly unknown to those who enforce it, and they kept trying to suggest we didn't legally own the car, or there were issues with our drivers licenses, contrary to the information we were given at the source (traffic police offices) before going ahead with the purchase. It was most infuriating, and draining (especially for poor Lukas,the only one who can understand their questions properly), but we escaped them all with little more then delay.

We were driving some distance, and planned a halfway pit-stop. We read of a series of cenotes (sinkholes filled with crystal clear waters ripe for swimming) that weren't far off-course and headed their way. The first attempt at finding them lead us into real off-road territory. The cave we found was completely absent of any light, despite our flashlights, the thought of swimming there seemed too dangerous, so we moved on.

Further down the road we discovered the cenotes we read about. The first one looked a little dodgy, with a long steel ladder extending down 20m into a small hole in the ground, disappearing into darkness. Convinced this was not the main one, we continued further up the road to the main site. Seems there's a monopoly on operation; with roads closed off, the only access is by a 9km horse drawn cart on rails. Not wanting to waste 3 hours or the small fortune they were charging the many other tourists already there, we headed back to the ominous pit we passed earlier.

The 'hole in the ground' that enticed us downward.

After descending about 5 meters, our eyes adapted turning black hole beneath into a wondrous cavern, covered in stalactites and mites, and filled with a deep pool of crystal clear water filtered by the rock over time. Once at the bottom of the wobbly ladder, the true glory of the cave was revealed, a single shaft of light illuminated the scene from above as the ladder pointed to the skies, like a scene from an Indiana Jones movie. And best of all, we had it all to ourselves, for mere pocket change.

The cave once inside was truly awe inspiring. Indy would be proud!

We took our time exploring what we could, then swimming in the perfectly clean waters, which when peered through, made it seem as if the water was not there at all. What a gem we'd stumbled upon! Perfect way to cool off from the humidity and searing heat.

Contemplating the immense forces that produced this magnificent wonder, before swimming in it.

Following our slow ascent we were back on the road, and in no time made our destination of Piste, a small town a few kilometers from the ruins of Chichen Itza. Updated visual journey map. After a dip in our hotel pool (first time we've had this luxury; most hotel here have them) the following morning we arose early to make the 8am opening and be among the first to hit the site, making the best of the relative peace and better light.

Main temple as you enter the complex.

After several hours of exploring we were done and already overheating. This site was interesting but we didn't find it as exciting as the Palenque site we'd explored with Petr 2 weeks previous.

More ruins frmo teh same site. Kept at a distance throughout this site by rope fences.

Chichen Itza also has it's own cenote, although this one is of the variety that has no roof, and appears as a cylindrical opening in the ground filled with water. Inside here archaeologists found Mayan gold jewelry, and remains of people all thought to be offerings to their Gods.

An iguana looks over the edge of the green-coloured water within the cenote.

After our ruin exploration we finished off the day with some pool-side relaxation (while we had one). The following morning it was time to hit the road again, and venture into our 7th and final Mexican state; Quintana Roo. We hoped to make it all the way to the coast, and onto an island called Isla de Cozumel. Following a swift break in the seaside town of Playa del Carmen we drove Herbie onto the ferry for her first trip over water (with us at least). Updated visual journey progress.

This side of Mexico is certainly very different to everything we've experienced so far. This is the area where American tourists flock in their tens of thousands. Massive, expensive resorts span the coast, everything is much more expensive and there's even a PGA golf course on the mainland. The purpose of this stop is to get in a spot of diving. As the reefs on the Caribbean here are the best spots in Mexico.

We also hope to discover if it's possible to take Herbie into the other countries we wish to visit . If not we will have to sell her before leaving Mexico :( We hope she can continue with us on our journey, and continue to add to the 4000km we have already clocked up driving her around this part of the world.

More pictures from Lukas.